Monday, April 28, 2014

"What are you?"

“What are you?”  In reality, this is a really strange question, but in our melting pot of America we ask this of each other fairly often.  One might respond, “Well, I’m German, British, Norwegian, Irish, and I’m even 1/32 Native American!”  But what does that really mean?!  This is a question I’ve been struggling with recently.  As people, it seems like we have this innate need to categorize ourselves.  There’s something comfortable and convenient about sorting everyone into a box.  In terms of our DNA, the very core of our being, every human on this planet is 99.9% similar to the next (according to Wikipedia), but for some reason we always feel the need to go back to the safety of our boxes.  Now you’re probably wondering what has brought me to this philosophical question, especially on a Monday, and there are a few reasons, one of which I’ve been thinking about practically since I arrived, while the other reared its ugly head last week.

As a “Diasporan Armenian” living in Armenia, I’ve often asked myself what it really means to be Armenian.  When I get the “What are you?” question, one of my responses is “Armenian”.  I wouldn’t be here if I weren’t “Armenian”.  Someone decided that after examining both of my great-grandparents’ death certificates and finding the words, “Place of Birth: Armenia”, it was therefore my “Birthright” to visit this country on someone else’s dime.  But what does being Armenian really mean?  And is it really all that different from being anything else?  Is it about eating dolma?  Is it about speaking the language?  Is it about going to the Armenian Church?  Is it about living here?  On occasion I’ve been asked, “Well, how Armenian are you?” or “What part of you is Armenian?” as if the answer could be my big toe.  In these rare situations I feel judged for identifying in some way with my Armenian identity, despite the fact that I don’t look as Armenian as the next (however it is that an Armenian is supposed to look), I didn’t grow up in an Armenian community, or even go to Armenian summer camp.  I don’t think I’ll ever land on an answer to what it means to be Armenian, but maybe that’s okay.  I don’t want to have to stay in the box.

The second thing that’s got me thinking about cultural identity was last weeks' Genocide Remembrance Day.  On April 24, 1915, notable members of the Armenian community in Istanbul were banished from the city.  Many mark this day on which Armenian scholars and community leaders were deported to the deserts of Syria as the beginning of the systematic killing of approximately 1.5 million Armenians by the Ottoman Turks.  So, every April 24th hundreds of thousands of Armenians visit the Genocide memorial and lay flowers around the eternal flame in memory of their ancestors and loved ones, the victims of the Genocide.  It is a somber day of remembrance and reflection, but for me, there was an ugly side to this tradition.

On the eve of Remembrance Day, we joined a candlelit march to the memorial.  Prior to the event, a few people asked me with enthusiasm, “Are you ready to burn the flag?!”  To this I asked, “What flag?”  Silly me… We gathered with the huge crowd in the center of Yerevan in front of the Opera.  After a few speeches, the flag took center stage.  I opened my mouth practically to the floor in awe as I witnessed the Turkish colors go up in flame to the cheers of the crowd.  I’ve learned from the Navy man and the Boy Scouts of the family that a flag is sacred.  I have fond memories of retiring the colors before sunset with my grandfather at our family’s cottage in the summer.  He taught me the right way to fold the flag, and he insisted that it never stay up overnight.  So for me, watching the Turkish flag disintegrate to ashes while an enthusiastic, cheering crowd looked on, this was the ultimate act of hatred towards a country and everything it stands for – its government, its politics, and most importantly its people.  I have gathered during my time in Armenia that many Armenians have strong feelings against Turks.  I’ve heard people say they would never speak to a Turkish person in their life, and worse.  This stems from the Turkish government’s continual denial of the Genocide, but at a certain point 99 years later it begs the question, why?  Although the massacre of Armenians was motivated by religious differences, I’m under the impression that Armenians and Turks have much more in common than they acknowledge.  But again, we force ourselves to dwell on the differences, sorting each other into our little boxes.  Watching this flag burning was probably one of the most shocking things I’ve ever witnessed.  But what’s more distressing is to think that every day around our world, people are expressing their hatred towards others and fighting battles over differences.

To close this extensive rant, I want to share a story from my semester abroad in Kenya.  I think it’s part of the answer of what we can do to help get ourselves out of our boxes.  During the semester I had the opportunity to visit the home of Pete O’Neal, member of the Black Panther Party.  During the 1960s he was arrested for transporting a gun across state lines.  He sought exile in Algeria, and later settled near Arusha, Tanzania where he and his wife run an amazing community and education center.  He hasn’t stepped foot on American soil since.  If he returns, he’ll immediately be sent to jail.  He has no American passport, nor is he a registered citizen of Tanzania.  One of my classmates asked him which country he considered he belonged to, and Pete’s answer stuck with me.  He said, “I don’t consider myself a citizen of the US or Tanzania.  I’m a citizen of the world.” 


Monday, April 21, 2014

Under the Sea (in a landlocked country)

Well I’ve had one of my most unproductive days in a while, so I figured I’d try to redeem myself by at least writing a new blog entry.  Today was a holiday, essentially Armenia’s Day of the Dead.  On this day it is tradition that people visit the graves of their loved ones.  For me, it was nice to have the day off from work and participate in Boston’s annual Patriot’s Day tradition and watch the Boston Marathon.  (Thus my lack of productivity.)  I’ve got plenty to do these days as I now have four volunteer placements, but procrastination has its ways.  Four hours of marathon coverage later, here I am.  But it was time well spent.  Here I was in Yerevan texting finish line updates to my parents along the racecourse.  Our world certainly seems small sometimes in this digital age. 

Today I want to share a video I took last week on my walk home from language class one day.  It’s a classic snapshot of Yerevan.  One of the many signs of spring in the city (in addition to outdoor cafes popping up out of nowhere, flower stalls on every corner, and that fresh spring smell after an overnight rain) is the nightly fountain show in Republic Square.  (Think Disney World dancing fountain, but not quite the same level of Disney magic.)  Usually when I walk through the square on my way home from language class they’re playing classical music and the fountains are dancing and everybody gathers to watch the show.  On this particular evening Yerevan decided to up their Disney magic level with this musical selection. 



There’s something about walking through the central square of Yerevan circled by the country’s government buildings, while hearing a Disney classic on the loudspeakers.  You just never know when Armenia will surprise you next!

Thursday, April 3, 2014

Hummingbirds in Hayastan

Today's blog post is published on the Armenian Environmental Network's blog.  I wrote this a few weeks ago for them during a slow day at the office.  You can find the post by clicking here!

And for those of you who think I've escaped this harsh winter on the East Coast, think again.  This happened on Sunday.  Rumor has it that anywhere from 80-90% of the year's apricot harvest has been destroyed as a result of the storm.  It is sure to be a hard year for the farmers whose livelihoods depend on the harvest.  Mother Nature certainly has her ways.